Saturday, February 9, 2013

The Ugly Duckling/Children's Book Writer.

- A fairy tale about disappointment and inadequacy and why it is important to become beautiful/rich/successful in order to stick it to all your detractors. 

Once upon a time, in a small Danish town called Odense, lived a small boy call Hans. Hans was an only child in a poor family, however his family insisted that he obtain an education and develop his creative side.

When he was 14ish, Hans left school and moved to the bright city lights of Copenhagen with stars in his eyes - he was going to become an actor (*flourish of hands*).

But that didn't work out.

So then, decided that he was going to be a dancer (*insert high kicks*).

But neither did that.

He temporarily found success with his souring soprano voice within a boys choir in an opera company.

But then his voice broke, and he was back to square one.

Eventually, he started to write essays and short stories which were read by Jonas Collins, who then took Hans under his wing and organised for his formal education. But it turns out even when Hans caught a break that he couldn't actually catch a break - he rated his school days as some of the worst days of his life because he wasn't allowed to write and was routinely abused.

Eventually, however, Hans graduated and was able to write prolifically. He received some acclaim for his short stories and essays, ironically, however, his children's books and fairy tales were completely panned in Denmark. He was copping so much flack for his infantile and simplistic children's stories that he fled to Germany. And apparently the Germans were a much less hostile audience than the Danes, because he then became *the* Hans Christensen Andersen that we know and love.

And then Denmark came crawling back and reclaimed him: it named all its streets after him, plonked a statute of the Little Mermaid in the middle of its industrial harbour and opened a ride in Tivoli dedicated to retelling the same stories that they had practically chased him out of the country for writing.

I had never read the original versions of H.C.'s fairy tales until we were stranded in a Russia airport for 10 hours, as we counted down to being sent to the gulag (more on that later). One of the people in our group treated us to a (completely hilarious and personalised) reading of The Ugly Duckling, which is a barely fictionalised autobiography of Andersen. Unlike all the brightly illustrated and large-fonted versions that had been read to me in my childhood, the original and literal Danish translation reads as something of a cross between a suicide note and a burn book.

The story of HC Andersen's expulsion from Denmark is something that the city of Odense would like, and is doing its darndest to ensure, people forget. Everything in this city is dedicated to the man.

They've kept his childhood home...





Shops...


Random statues...


Even the street lights.




But aside from plastering every plausible (and even some unplausible) location with an obscure HC Andersen reference (HC Andersen's favourite kebab place, anyone?), Odense was a pretty cute little place. We were there on a Sunday morning, so it was more or less a ghost town (Sunday trading literally only became legal around October last year), but it was nice just to wander around the streets and the parks.

The oldest street in Odense. 







Odense Town Hall







We did a little bit of dream-house shopping along the creek/river in Odense...
I will own this house one day. 
A statue in front of the Odense Opera house - painting to look like it has balconies and other fancy architectural features that they were too stingy to actually build. 


To bring this post full circle, it turns out that HC Andersen was buried just a few blocks from my house in the Assistens Kirkegard. The cemetery is a sprawling patch of land in Norrebro and is actually quite a lovely area for a walk. Also, apparently people have picnics there. 




In Odense

Friday, February 8, 2013

0.5 of a Cultural Capital - Aarhus


Fun fact, in 1948 the Danish parliament passed a law requiring all "aa"'s to be changed to the Danish letter "Å". Because Aarhus is all about being progressive, they went along with this and became Århus for about 60 years, and then in 2010 they decided to change their name back to the traditional Aarhus (according to Wikipedia, their mayor said it was so that it would be easier to find the city in a Google search).

The name change has given Aarhus just the right amount of obscurity to justify it being awarded the European Capital of Culture for 2017.


The notion of the "Capital of Culture" is a bit strange to me. For starters, there hasn't been just one Cultural Capital since 2006 (when it was Patras), so the prestige associated with the title is always divided by two, although special mention goes to 2007 when the "Greater Region" - an area encompassing Saarland, Lorraine, Luxembourg, Rhineland-Palatinate, Wallonia, the French Community of Belgium and the German-speaking Community of Belgium, and to 2000 when there were 9 separate Capitals of Culture). As it stands, Aarhus will be sharing its turn as Capital with Paphos in Cyprus. 



Nothing says "We appreciate culture" louder than destroying musical instruments and a large pile of wooden crates. 
Aarhus is located pretty much in the centre of Denmark (if you draw a circle around all of the islands etc) and is the country's second largest city. One thing that is really strange though, is that walking around Aarhus felt a lot like Copenhagen. There is a Stroget. An Aboulevard. A Bispetorvet. A Vesterbrogade. It turns out, with the help of Google Maps, every city in Denmark has the same main street names. 

Looking down the canal from Arhus-Stroget.
Pronounced "Stroh-uuuuuhhhllllllllll".
Because Danes just get tired if you expect them to pronounce more than 3 letters at once, and just kind-of groan to finish off words. 



Aarhus Cathedral

















The Aarhus Theatre



We went to this adorable cafe before going into the ARoS Gallery - this was my white hot chocolate. Complete with a generous dollop of chocolate at the bottom. 
Aarhus's premier attraction is the ARoS Kunstmuseum, a 10-storey high high modern art museum, filled with art which I don't particularly appreciate...





I'm not 100% sure if this is art, or just a testament to the hardiness of weeds. 
But I am fairly certain this is art.

ohohoh! This was the coolest. It was actually on fire. 


... until I got to the top level!

Entitled "Your Rainbow Panorama", it is 150m worth of cool.