Friday, December 18, 2015

The downside of bad Spanish

Having a rudimentary grasp of another language isn't all hilarity.  

Living in Xela is often maddeningly frustrating because I just can't communicate like I'd want to. There is nothing to make you feel more like these dogs than staring blankly at another grown human who is telling you something important and you just don't know what it is they're saying (also, just an excuse to include a montage of hilarious dogs). 


And sometimes it's not understanding the bus conductor when he's telling you that you *really* should have gotten off the bus already, and so you just smile and nod politely and end up 20 minutes from where you wanted to/were meant to be. 

And sometimes, you accidentally end up at the local belly-dancing school's end of semester performance, because you thought it was a musical production of Aladdin. 

Allow me to elaborate.

One day, a woman came into my school and put up this flier.



Having read it, I believed that it was a production of the musical Aladdin. And given my enduring love for Disney, and my overwhelming shock at the low-low price of 30Q (about $6 – so I thought it was probably going to be a community group), I was in like Flynn.

After the moderately traumatising experience of trying to buy tickets (involving walking into at least 10 shops and a bank in the same shopping centre to find the one place that actually sold the tickets), I had my ticket in hand, and was ready for a magical night with my favourite Disney songs, en español.

As you probably have guessed, this did not happen.

The performance was a little late to start (40mins, actually), which I attributed to the delicate disposition of community-group thespians. But finally (and after a very unimpressed abuela started 5 rounds of “ok, time to get started now” applause), the lights dimmed, and the opening bars of ‘Arabian Nights’ sounded. 

This was my first hint that maybe this night would be a little different, because the guy (who would later become Jafar) was lip-syncing badly, albeit passionately to the movie recording. But I figured finding good singers is a challenge in every amateur production, so perhaps it was better to lip-sync to the magical voice of Lea Salonga and Robin Williams than to butcher the collective childhood's of everyone in the audience. 

The curtain raised, and the set was thus.


So nothing too alarming. Standard community theatre thriftiness on display. 

And then a harem appeared. And started bellydancing. 

And then kept bellydancing. 

For at least 5 minutes. 

And I remembered from the flier that the production was by the Xela Bellydancing group - and even at this point, I remained politely convinced that this was a theatrical production, and they were just going to really go to down on the dance numbers. And when Aladdin eventually appeared in the harem's routine, I remembered that he does visit a brothel half-way through "One Jump", and was reassured that we would be getting into the musical soon. 

But then Aladdin left and the dancing continued to the end of a Bollywood-sounding song. 

And then another song began. And new bellydancers appeared. 

And then it clicked. 

This is not a musical. This is not a play. This is Aladdin told purely through interpretive bellydancing (sidebar: this also turned out to be incorrect). 

After this number, we had a quick piece of dialogue between Jasmine, Jafar and Aladdin (pronounced "A-la-din") about some kind of marriage, and my hope was restored... I would be able to practice my espanol after all. 

And then another 15 minute dance break resumed and it was only then that the penny dropped. This was the dance-school's performance night. 

It had all the talent of a high school musical (not High School Musical, you standard Aspley State High School production of the shitty 70's-themed rendition of Disco Inferno - which was a plagiarised and butchered version of Wuthering Heights), with all of the charm of your early-teenage theater troupe's angst-filled rendition of Equus with sin the style of physical theatre and Brechtianism (by the way, Mum and Dad, I'm not sure I ever apologised for that... but you can consider this as karmic retribution in spades). 

And my previous thoughts about lip-syncing so as not to butcher beloved childhood classics? Not a chance. Turns out a desire to massacre "A Whole New World" (or "An Ideal World" as the version goes in Spanish) is universal to amateur triple threats. So we got a stirring (read: blood-curdling) rendition of my favourite Disney song, which was both off-key, off-pace, off-beat and simultaneously out-of-this-world fantastic. Because did you know you could do a bellydancing duet? I didn't. I do now. 



So once I decided to just roll with it, the night became amazing.

The clear highlight was the under-8s (sidebar: it is definitely uncomfortable to watch small children gyrate around in boob tubes - especially when the kids are already better at dancing seductively than I will ever be), when the youngest (who would have been about 5) decided that she comprehensively did NOT want to be involved and sat down on stage. And then proceeded to walk around trying to get the other kids to stop dancing.

But when, after 90 minutes of amateur belly dancing, a group number started with at least 20 dancers I haven't seen before miraculously appeared, I decided it was high time to leg it out of there, before the next 4 days of my life were sapped away in a whirl of feather boats, tulle, midriffs and more glitter eye make-up than any self-respecting drag queen would wear.

And that, kids, is how I learned the following important life lesson: when life gives you an Aladdin-themed-bellydancing-performance, make lemonade. And add vodka. Liberally.






Tuesday, December 15, 2015

Sometimes I pretend to be outdoorsy

It seldom goes well for me. 

Recently, this materialised in the form of the outrageously optimistic thought that I, Lucy, having the wealth of mountaineering experience that can be gleaned through a slightly vigourous walk up a flight of stairs, decided to have a crack at Volcán Santa Maria. 

The volcano is 3,772m above sea-level (Xela is 2,330m), and has been dormant since 1922, when a side-vent (nb. may not be the technical term) erupted and created the Santiaguito "volcano/lava dent". 

Santa Maria's big claim to fame is its 1902 eruption, which was one of the longest eruptions in history. It was a 6 on the VEI (Volcanic Explosivity Index - which, by the way, has the greatest scale of any scientific measurement, ranging from "Effusive" to "Mega Colossal"), which puts it just below the 1991 explosion of Mt Pinatubo, which you can read all about in my Year 9 Science research report (I'll be waiting by my inbox, waiting for the flood of emails requesting a copy). 

It's best to hike the volcano at night/early in the morning, because the clouds blow in from mid-morning, and it completely defeats the purpose of hauling ass up the mountain if you can't see anything from the top. 

And so our adventure began in the depths of night, when we arrived by minibus at the base of the volcano at midnight. Accompanied by two guides, and two policemen (because apparently, it's not uncommon to get robbed on the trail), we started with a gentle, 40min stroll up a slight gradient through paddocks. 


At this point, I realised that despite being moderately fit, this was not going to be a fun traipse up a mountain. Within 5 mins, I was wheezing. 

And not adorably. 

So after these 40mins, when the guide said "and now the real hike begins?" I was about ready to roll myself back down the hill. 

But I persevered. 

What followed was three and a half hours of, which I'm not proud to say, shuffling, hyperventilating and feeling comprehensively sorry for myself. I think I might be the first human to propel herself up a mountain using only whinge-power. 

My lamp didn't work (super fun for pitch black, muddy climbs). I was a moron and didn't bring gloves (cue frostnip). The altitude was awful. I was unfit. My shoelaces wouldn't tie. Wah. Wah. Wahhhhh. 

In all fairness to myself though, I was really surprised by how hard the altitude hit me (and it's made me reconsider how much of a slacker I thought I was after Chicobal). At some points, I could only take 10 steps before I had to stop and breathe for 10 breaths to recover even a little. 

Added to this, the path itself was an absolute nightmare - it was all muddy and rocky, with just enough trees to keep you on your toes (or ass, as happened to me twice when I was too busy looking for handholds to realise that I was propelling myself directly into a branch). And because of this, there are very few photos of the walk up, except for this specimen, which is the only vaguely focussed photo I managed to take...

Xela by night. 
A nearly-full moon which theoretically meant we had great visibility of the path.


I call shenanigans. 
But in the thoroughly respectable time of 3.5hrs (we were told to expect 4-5), we managed to ascend up through the clouds (an experience which was equally amazing and freezing) and reach the top of the mountain. 

Little did I know that the worst was yet to come. 

Because as torturous as the 3.5hrs of climbing had been, the constant hyperventilation had done an fabulous job of keeping all but my extremities extremely warm. Adding to this, climbing  amongst (and whacking my head against) trees, had been largely shielding us from the wind. And when we got to the top, we were brutally unprotected from it.  And since we'd made the top in such good time, we had about 2 hours to wait until the sunrise. 

It. 

Was.

Awful. 

I have never been so cold, and so underprepared to be cold, in my life. I was wearing thermals, leggings, jumpers, some fancy wind- and rain-proof coat, a beanie, and was burrito-ed inside a sleeping bag and I was still shivering *violently* for what felt like literally was hours. 

On the upside, it shook all the lactic acid out of my body, which is why I wasn't completely crippled after the hide, on the the downside, I have never experienced whole-body cramps like I did that morning. And when you're huddled for dear warmth inside of a sleeping bag, there are extremely limited options for stretching out cramps, so you just have to ride the dragon. I'm not too proud to admit there were tears. 

But after 2 hrs, I finally got the glimmer of hope I was desperately needing. 

RISE YOU BASTARD, RISE.
The view from the top, out over not-Xela (the other side of the volcano). 
I couldn't pick which of these photos would make you most jealous, so this next bit's going to get monotonous...
#sahhartsy
WOULD YOU JUST HURRY UP AND RISE?


More proof that I was, in fact, above the clouds
Finally, the sun rose enough to get a photo to prove that I did climb a mountain.

And then I promptly ran back into my sleeping bag. 
HOW DID YOU GET LOWER AGAIN??? COME BACK
Santiaguito - the volcano we'd been told to watch for an eruption
How to not be warm enough, by Lucy. 
I got out again to take a jumpy photo.

Fucking love a jumpy photo.

(I was crying from cold on the inside)
Xela by (almost) day
HOW ARE YOU NOT UP YET?
Looking out over the other side of the volcano. 
Other side of the volcano feat. Moon.  
Higher... 
Higher....
Nearly there.....
So did you guys know that mountains can have shadows?

I did not.

But if you look at the blue triangle, in the middle of this photo - that is the shadow of Santa Maria. 
Other side of the volcano feat. moon feat. shadow of a volcano
AND THE SUN IS UP AND I CAN BE HAPPY AGAIN
Seriously, I was really excited about discovering mountain-shadows. 


HOLY SHIT I FORGOT HOW COLD AND MISERABLE I WAS BECAUSE THE VOLCANO NEXT TO US STARTED EXPLODING AND SUDDENLY I AM SO HAPPY THAT I MADE MYSELF DO THIS!!!

!!!!!
Genuinely thrilled and not at all cold and miserable.



Oh, so you take forever to get above the horizon, but once you're here, you're just going to jet off into the sky? 

Having seen our fill of sunrises/moonsets/volcano eruptions/mountain shadows and frostnip, we started the treacherous journey down the mountain. 

And while going up still remains the deepest lever of hell, going down was not the stark relief I had hoped for. Because in addition to being steep, slippery and muddy, I was now outrageously fatigued from no sleep and the ascent. Adding insult to injury, as we were trudging down, we passed about 200 Mayan people wandering up, some of them dressed in long skirts and thongs (cf. my hiking boots and activewear)
My attire. 
The path.

Not seen, how steep, muddy and slippery it was. 
But in 3.5hrs (maybe a little under), we made it back down to the paddocks where we'd started the "real hike", and promptly collapsed for a 20min power-lie-down-and-process-the-enormity-of-what-you-have-achieved/nap. 


I did this. 
I did this hard. 
And so this story ends with me soaking my hands in warm water for about 4hrs until they got feeling back/stopped burning, having a stand-up-nap in the shower and then a solid 14hrs of sleep. 



And then I started Googling which volcano I would climb next....

Thursday, December 3, 2015

The upside of bad Spanish

One of the benefits of speaking beginners Spanish is that it allows me to partially comprehend things, and then let my imagination fill in the gaps.


Usually, this is fairly tame and mundane (and probably accurate), but occasionally, it shines. And sometimes, the connections that my imagination brings up are so good, I don’t even want to double check them to get the actual translation.


This happened last week.


Ice-cream with a police guard?

Guatemala, I feel like we both feel the same way about ice-cream. 
 We went on an excursion to San Andrés Xecul, one of the towns outside Xela. We got there on a shuttle, chicken bus and then a tuk-tuk. Now, I don’t have a photo of the exact tuk-tuk, but I thought our group of 5 would have to split into 2 or maybe even 3 tuk-tuks… For the first time in my life, I clearly lacked ambition.

The tuk-tuk

And the start of a game that I will affectionately call "how many people can you cram into a tuk-tuk"


Mario, our 70ish teacher/guide hailed one and all 5 of us piled in (3 fully grown adupts in the back, 2 hanging out on either side of the driver), and very slowly, trudged up the hill.  In fact, it turns out moped motors aren’t intended to carry 5 grown adults + a child up a moderately steep hill.



The town is predominantly Mayan, and when we were there, they were preparing for a religious festival to celebrate Mayan culture and the language.

The Mayans have many languages, however the most widely spoken is K'iche', which has approximately a million native speakers (7ish% of the Guatemalan population). Why are there apostrophes? In a deeply traumatic flashback to my failed attempt to learn Danish, the “ ‘ “ in K’iche’ represents glottal stops. The sound that you make when you start choking. (Fun fact: apparently there isn’t a word for “no” or “blue” in K’iche’).

Old-school knife sharpening


Now, as is becoming an increasing feature of my travels, the major landmark of San Andrés Xecul was obscured by a tent for said festival (see also, US Supreme Court, The Pantheon). But it was mighty pretty nonetheless.

Oh hi there Lucy, it's so nice of you to be here.
This is a nice church...
It would be a shame if someone... PUT A MASSIVE GODDAMNED TENT IN FRONT OF IT

The church was built by the Mayan people for the Catholics. But when I say that, I don’t mean that it was a good gesture. It was more of an enslavement situation.


But because the Mayans only take a limited amount of crap, they built the church, but made the façade full of homages to their own religion. Jaguars, bells, animals, birds and triangles all play important symbolic roles in traditional religions here (although they are not “the gods”, they only “represent” the gods, as Mario went to great pains to explain).



And here is where things started getting lost in translation.

There is a huge ladder and a tightrope (about 25m long) which leads up to the peak of the church. According to my translation of the explanation (and please this is purely my own fault - Mario is absolutely magnificent, knowledgeable and speaks great Spanish)… men in the town will participate in a purification rite for about 1 or 2 months. This includes nothing fun – no alcohol, no drugs, no sex, no meat, no nice food – nada. After this purification period, the men will don tiger costumes, climb the ladder and tightrope walk over to the church.

See the rope leading to the bottom of the cross? 

And this is the pole/ladder situation. 
I do not know if
  1.  there is a safety net (there wasn’t when I was there, but it might be made a little later)
  2.   they walk both ways
  3. if any of this is in fact true.

After looking at the large church, we walked up an incredibly steep slope to see a smaller chapel. It was very similar in design to the larger version, and I’m not sure what it’s specific use is for. 

Not the tightrope.

Just pretty flowers. 

Lots of photos?

I just really like taking photos...

It's not because the road was prohibitively steep and I was struggling to walk up it in one go.... 
I do this for your benefit, yeah?

Pretty little church!

Although interestingly, next to the chapel is a large flat plot of land which is used for Mayan rites.



I did learn (I think) – that crosses play an important role in Mayan religion, although they prefer crosses with equal arms, as opposed to Christian crosses which have a long and short arm.


You can see the yarn being dried after being dyed at one of the houses!
PepsiCo: the leading supplier of security in Guatemala

The slope

I took this photo to indicate how steep it was - check my reflection. 


I waited forever to get a photo of this cute street cat, and it turns out it was the devil. 

Edit: So my Spanish + memory was so bad, I've mixed up my saints... apparently the following all relates to San Simon, not San Sebastian, as I'd originally written. I've fixed it now. Sorry Saint Sebastian. Apparently you're a more benevolent being than San Simon, so I'm lucky I've pissed off the right one. 


After the chapel, we went to what can be conservatively described as the weirdest shrine I have ever been to. This guy has a shrine to Saint Simon in his yard, which for 5Quetzales ($1AUD) you can have a quick look at.

Oh yeah, Simon also makes candles. 


This is it.

San Simon + backup San Simon.

Gotta have a spare.

Bizarre, no?


There are about seven Saint Simons (again, this is my translation/miscomprehension of the tour guide, and shouldn’t be taken as fact) for different regions in Guatemala, and he’s kind of a “jack of all deities/miracles” for the religious folks of Guatemala.

All the miracles
And how he works is that you have a shrine with a life-sized version of him, smoking a cigar (because granting miracles deserves cigars y’hear?), and then you bring colour candles to him, and he gives you what he wants.


And none of this Disney-style “no wishing for more wishes/no violating free will” weenie crap. It’s on for young and old. Simon’s got it. You want her to be in love with you? Red candle = done. You want him to leave you alone? *some other colour* candle = done. Simon will get it done. 

As you can see from the photos above, the shrine has two San Simons, which is apparently quite common for shrines, because you need to have a spare one. Obvi. And (this again, might be my shitty Spanish) for when you want to TAKE ONE OUT INTO THE STREET. 

That's right, folks, San Simon takes his all-miracle, no-free-will thing on the road. 

So if you see me tramping around Australia next year with two mannequins smoking cigars, lit with fairy lights and wearing aviators, you'll should definitely throw $1 my way, so that San Simon can grant you *your* miracle. 

Simon's got my back.